I'm such a wave snob I almost didn't go out when it was like this with nobody out.
But it was freezing at 48 degrees. (the news lady said it was 38 degrees outside of her house in LA that morning at 4:30am.)
One Surfer Paddled Out with Booties On.(booties= wetsuit socks.)
Then two of these in a row came (not a sequence two different waves) And I had no choice but to go get mine. Surfed 3 hours - wave pool style as it was perfect A Frames, but not Heavy/Thick/Dangerous just good fun.
No comments:
Post a Comment